Black Tie Dress Code For Men: A Complete Style Guide For 2025

When the invitation says black tie, it’s not just a dress code, it’s a tradition. Steeped in formality and timeless style, black tie occasions often mark life’s most refined celebrations, from weddings, to gala dinners and grand events where polish and poise are expected.

Yet, even today, it’s a dress code often misinterpreted. Many mistake it for simply dressing smartly, or assuming any dark suit will do. In truth, Black Tie is straightforward once you know the rules. This guide will explain exactly what Black Tie means and how to wear it well in 2025 with confidence. 

What Does Black Tie Actually Mean?

At its core, black tie is a formal dress code typically reserved for evening events. Black tie is called black tie for a reason - because originally, the only appropriate bow tie to be worn in this situation was black (or a midnight blue). Key components traditionally include a black or midnight blue wool barathea dinner jacket, matching trousers, a formal white dress shirt, a black bow tie and black leather shoes. This is not to get confused with your regular work suit, this is timeless formal wear that is reserved for sophisticated events. 

Traditionally, Black Tie is an evening dress code, reserved for events taking place after 6 p.m. Before that hour, the more appropriate and historically traditional option for daytime occasions is morning wear - a formal ensemble consisting of a morning coat, waistcoat, and striped trousers, often worn for weddings, races, and other distinguished daytime events. Explore our collection of morning wear here.

A Brief History of Black Tie

The story of black tie in Britain begins in the private dining rooms and gentlemen’s clubs of late Victorian England. In the mid-19th century, the height of evening formality was the tailcoat and white tie ensemble. However, by the 1860s, society was beginning to relax. The future King Edward VII, then Prince of Wales, commissioned his tailor at Henry Poole & Co. on Savile Row to create a more comfortable evening jacket he could wear for informal dinners at his country residence, Sandringham.

The result was a shorter, single-breasted evening jacket in dark blue, trimmed with silk facings - a practical alternative to the stiff white-tie tailcoat. This new garment spread quickly among his circle, becoming known as the dinner jacket in Britain, and later the “tuxedo” in America (after the Tuxedo Park social club in New York).  

As the twentieth century progressed, dinner jackets and black bow ties became less associated with regular evening wear and more associated with the special events that came to be characterised by the tie that was an intrinsic part of the uniform. In turn, “black tie events” became associated with glamorous events and people - amongst its most famous advocates were Charlie Chaplin, Humphrey Bogart, Frank Sinatra, Fred Astaire and Dean Martin.

Image from The Gentleman's Gazette

The Evolution of Black Tie

Black tie has evolved without losing its heritage. Today we see slimmer cuts, more velvet, subtle textures - yet the core style stays timeless. Velvet dinner jackets in deep colours bring warmth and depth to modern eveningwear, while textured fabrics such as mohair and wool-silk blends introduce quiet luxury. For winter, a quilted or piped smoking jacket offers a modern alternative to traditional tailoring - distinctive yet perfectly appropriate. 

Today’s black tie is about confidence and comfort, not rigidity. The look remains timeless, but the details - colour, cut and texture give it new life for the modern gentleman. 

Black Tie Outfit Essentials

A great black tie look comes down to the details. Here’s what each piece should bring to the ensemble:

The Jacket

Opt for a single or double-breasted black dinner jacket. For a touch of personality, a velvet dinner jacket in deep tones (navy, burgundy, or dark green) works beautifully for winter or festive events.

Our signature single-breasted dinner jacket, the Carlyle, embodies timeless elegance, while the Beaufort offers a refined double-breasted alternative. For those seeking something distinctive, our extensive collection of velvet jackets provide a sophisticated twist on the classic black dinner jacket, especially for more festive and creative black tie events. For more traditional events however, keep it classic.

There are multiple different lapel styles - notch lapel, peak lapel, and shawl collar. The notch lapel is characterised by a 90-degree cut at the collar, often found on blazers and suits, offering a slightly more casual look suitable for both formal and semi-formal occasions. The peak lapel has a more structured appearance, with pointed edges that extend upward, often seen on dinner jackets, making it ideal for black-tie events. The shawl lapel, with its softer, rounder shape, creates a smooth and elegant look, typically reserved for formal evening wear. We offer a range of jackets that incorporate all three of these distinctive lapel styles.

Image from Generation Tux

The Trousers

The trousers should match your jacket in fabric and tone, finished with a single row of braid or satin along the outer leg. They should sit neatly on the shoe - never bunched or cropped. Our Pleated Dinner Trousers in Black Barathea are the perfect option for the ensemble. 

The Shirt

A crisp double-cuffed white dress shirt is non-negotiable, with a wing or classic collar to frame the bow tie nicely. Look for one with a Marcella front, and make sure to add Cufflinks for an elegant finishing touch. Discover our collection of evening shirts here.

The Bow Tie

A black silk bow tie remains the standard - if you opt for a velvet jacket, even match the jacket with a velvet bow tie. 

The Shoes

Black tie calls for high-shine black shoes - ideally patent leather Oxfords. For a contemporary edge, loafers and slippers can work, but steer clear of brogues or suede. Always ensure shoes are spotless and well-maintained.

When it comes to accessorising black tie, don’t overdo it. The goal is to complement the ensemble, not compete with it. 

Bow Tie

A black silk bow tie is non-negotiable for traditional black tie. Opt for a hand-tied version rather than pre-tied for a natural shape and a touch of character. Velvet or textured finishes can work for winter events, but avoid shiny polyester or novelty patterns - they cheapen the look. Explore our range of bow ties here.

Cummerbund

Originally worn by British military officers in India, cummerbunds were adopted by civilians in the early 20th century as a fashionable alternative to a waistcoat. They would be worn at formal events to cover the waistband when men dined without a waistcoat, with the pleats up to catch the crumbs. A classic black silk or midnight blue cummerbund paired with your black tie attire remains a traditional and timeless look.

Pocket Square

A white cotton or silk pocket square is the perfect finishing touch. Fold it neatly — a simple presidential or puff fold works best. Avoid bold colours or patterns. Shop our collection of refined pocket squares here.

Cufflinks

Cufflinks should be understated and elegant - think silver, gold, or black onyx. Avoid anything oversized, brightly coloured, or novelty-shaped. Remember, they’re there to add polish, not personality. View our collection of cufflinks here.

Black Tie Dress Code: Do’s and Don’ts

Even the best intentions can miss the mark when it comes to Black Tie. Follow this list and you’ll never get it wrong. 

Do’s: What to Wear to a Black Tie Event

• A Dinner Jacket
• White evening shirt with double cuffs
• Single-striped trousers
• Black silk bow tie
• Patent leather or highly polished shoes
• Classic accessories - pocket square, cufflinks, dress watch

Don’ts: What Not to Wear to a Black Tie Event

• Business suit
  

• Coloured or patterned shirts
  

• Trainers or suede shoes
  

• Loud socks or novelty accessories
  

• Pre-tied bow ties

Black Tie for Different Occasions

Though the principles of black tie stay the same across various different occasions, subtle adjustments can make your outfit feel more appropriate and comfortable for the particular event you’re attending.

Weddings

A black tie wedding is an opportunity to look your sharpest. A classic single-breasted dinner jacket in black, paired with an evening shirt and bow tie strikes the perfect tone - groom or guest. Our Carlyle Dinner Jacket in Black Barathea is the ultimate classic, however, for those seeking a distinctive touch our double-breasted Beaufort dinner jacket also presents a fabulous choice.

Kiran & Matt's Wedding - Credit to Natalie J Photography

Galas and Winter Events

For evening galas, charity balls, or festive celebrations, a touch of texture goes a long way. A velvet dinner jacket in rich, deep, tones adds depth and seasonal warmth. If the event falls around Christmas time, consider wearing one of our Bordeaux or Green velvet jackets for that festive touch.

Parties / Award Dinners

These occasions often lean towards modern interpretations of black tie. Consider a shawl lapel - such as our new Shawl lapel Wool/Mohair Dinner Suit, which would be an impeccable choice for the occasion.

Black tie remains one of the most enduring and elegant dress codes, combining tradition with classic style. By following the core essentials and thoughtful accessories, you can approach any formal evening with confidence.

We invite you to shop the collection online here, or visit us in-store where our expert team are on hand to assist you with all your black tie needs.

We also offer a range of luxury Black Tie hire options - visit our hire site here.