What is a Smoking Jacket?

The smoking jacket has been one of menswear's most elegant garments since the 17th century. In this guide, we look at what a smoking jacket is, where it came from and how it has evolved.

What is it?

The smoking jacket was first introduced as an informal men’s style of lounge jacket, originally designed to protect one’s clothing from tobacco smoke. Its classic design featured a shawl lapel and turn-up cuffs, closed with either button fastenings, toggles or a tie belt, and was usually made from velvet or silk.

Nowadays, modern tailoring has slimmed its silhouette to suit modern tastes. It has evolved from a functional lounging piece to a jacket for formal evenings, even becoming a celebrated alternative to black tie.

The History of The Smoking Jacket

The smoking jacket holds a rich history. Initially a private garment, it has long carried associations with wealth, leisure and refinement, evolving from a practical piece to a symbol of sophisticated dress.

The origins of the smoking jacket can be traced back to the influence of the Ottoman Empire, where Turkish men wore luxurious long, loose-fitting robes called ‘kaftans’, usually made from silk and velvet, while smoking hookahs. By the early 17th century, as tobacco and other goods arrived in Britain from Asia and the Americas, the idea of a special smoking garment began to take hold. Men would wear these garments to protect their attire while smoking, removing them once finished to preserve the freshness of their clothing beneath.

One of the earliest references comes from the diarist Samuel Pepys, who wished to be painted wearing one for his portrait, even though he had to hire the garment due to its high cost. This detail hints at the social significance of the jacket: although originally designed as a private garment, its luxurious composition quickly made it a marker of wealth and taste, often displayed in portraiture to signal status.

Image from The Gentleman's Gazette 

The Evolution

The smoking jacket underwent a transformation in the mid-19th century. Early versions resembled long dressing gowns, but by the 1850s they had been tailored into shorter, more structured jackets. As smoking became increasingly a social activity, with men gathering in private smoking rooms or gentlemen’s clubs, these jackets became an essential part of the ritual, absorbing the tobacco smoke in style. The jacket gained ever greater public exposure, leading to its emergence in the world of fashion.

It was Royal influence that further cemented its status. In 1865, the Prince of Wales, later King Edward VII, commissioned Henry Poole of Savile Row to create a new style for private dinners at Sandringham: a shorter, single-breasted jacket with silk-faced lapels, cut in the manner of the smoking jacket. This design caught the attention of James Brown Potter, an American guest of the Prince, who had one made by Henry Poole in 1886. Potter introduced the style to his circle at Tuxedo Park in New York, where it quickly gained popularity, giving the American ‘tuxedo’ its name.

From that moment, the smoking jacket became a global symbol of refined style, worn throughout the 20th century both as elegant loungewear and as a sophisticated alternative to black tie.

Image from Rampley & Co.

Modern Day Wear

Today, the smoking jacket has transcended its original function. While it may no longer be essential for post-dinner cigars, it remains a statement piece for the modern wardrobe. Worn to formal events, weddings and dinners, it offers an elegant substitute for traditional black tie. Velvet provides an opportunity to add that bit of colour and texture to any formal ensemble, making it a favourite among those who appreciate both heritage and individuality in their attire.

For black tie, wear the Carlyle or the Beaufort in place of a dinner jacket, with evening trousers, a dress shirt and a silk bow tie. For a festive gathering or celebration dinner, the same jacket pairs well with an open collar or a bow tie in a complementary shade.

For those who favour the traditional smoking jacket, the Pembroke and the Caversham are the most authentic expressions of the style. The Pembroke pairs a wide shawl lapel with embroidered cuffs and fine piping, and is just as at home with tartan trousers at Christmas as with a bow tie in the evening. The Caversham takes those flourishes further, with ornate frogging fasteners and a refined stand collar inspired by the richly embellished jackets of the 18th and 19th centuries. Both make a memorable choice for festive dinners and celebrations, for the gentleman not afraid to show off a little.

For dinner with friends, the Whittaker and the Ormonde come into their own, worn over a fine roll neck with tailored trousers. And for an evening at home, the smoking jacket returns to its roots, as fitting for hosting as it is for a quiet night by the fire. Velvet slippers or polished Oxfords complete the look.

Our collection of smoking jackets offers versatile and luxurious options crafted from the finest velvets. Ideal for dinners, intimate gatherings or sophisticated evenings, these jackets combine traditional design elements, such as shawl collars, silk lapels and intricate frogging, with modern tailoring. Available in a rich spectrum of colours, from deep greens and burgundies to purples, royal blues and timeless black or navy, our collection also includes bold lapel options and both single and double-breasted styles. Whatever the occasion, there is a jacket designed to ensure you stand out.

Explore our collection of smoking jackets, and be sure to make a statement wherever the evening takes you.

We also invite you to visit us in store, where our expert team can help you find the style and shade that suits you perfectly.