White Tie Style Guide by Oliver Brown
At Oliver Brown, we celebrate the art of dressing well, and few dress codes capture elegance quite like White Tie. With a rich history stretching back centuries, it remains a symbol of tradition, refinement and a true sense of occasion. In this guide, we explore the history of White Tie, the pieces that define it and our key tips for getting every detail just right.
What is White Tie & What Does it Involve?
White Tie is the most formal of men’s dress codes, traditionally reserved for the grandest of occasions, from state dinners and formal balls to certain operatic and ceremonial events.
At the heart of the dress code is an Evening Tailcoat, worn with a Single-Breasted Marcella Waistcoat and a crisp Marcella Wing Collar Shirt. Evening Tail Trousers, finished with two rows of traditional ribbed braiding, complete the tailoring, while the White Bow Tie gives the dress code its name.
The ensemble is traditionally completed with patent leather Oxford shoes and long black evening socks. For a particularly traditional finish, opera pumps may also be worn.
Tips for Wearing White Tie
The Waistcoat
The waistcoat is one of the defining elements of White Tie, and getting the fit right makes all the difference. Traditionally, it should sit neatly beneath the evening tailcoat rather than extending below it.
Today, with trousers generally worn a little lower on the waist than their historic counterparts, a subtle glimpse of the waistcoat beneath the tailcoat is perfectly acceptable. The important thing is proportion: a well-fitted waistcoat should sit cleanly against the body and complement the lines of the tailoring.
Attention to Detail
With a dress code as established as White Tie, it is often the smallest details that bring the whole ensemble together.
Keep accessories considered. White Tie calls for restraint rather than excess. A white silk evening scarf, traditional evening cloak or top hat can make an elegant addition, but there is no need to over-accessorise.
Keep to tradition when it comes to colour. The evening tailcoat and trousers should be black, contrasted with a white shirt, waistcoat and bow tie. It is this simplicity that gives White Tie its distinctive appearance.
Choose cufflinks and shirt studs carefully. Light-coloured or white-metal finishes are traditionally favoured for formal evening dress, adding a subtle finishing touch without distracting from the ensemble.
The History Behind White Tie
White Tie has a long and distinguished history, evolving from the formal evening dress worn by gentlemen in the late 18th and early 19th centuries. As conventions around evening wear developed, it became the established dress for society’s grandest occasions, from formal dinners and balls to ceremonial events.
By the Victorian era, the conventions of White Tie had become increasingly defined. The evening tailcoat emerged as a cornerstone of the dress code, worn with high-waisted black trousers, a white waistcoat, formal evening shirt and, of course, a white bow tie.
The distinctive cut of the tailcoat was particularly well suited to the ballroom. Its open front and tails created an elegant silhouette while allowing freedom of movement when dancing - a design that remains largely unchanged in traditional White Tie today.
The arrival of the dinner jacket in the late 19th century, and the subsequent rise of Black Tie, introduced a less formal approach to evening dress. White Tie gradually became reserved for the grandest occasions, yet it has never disappeared. Today, it remains the pinnacle of traditional men’s evening dress, defined by ceremony, precision and an enduring sense of occasion.
