What is a Smoking Jacket?
The smoking jacket has stood as one of menswear’s most elegant garments since its origins in the 17th century. In this article, we explore what a smoking jacket is, its fascinating history, how it has evolved over time, and how it can be worn today as a stylish and sophisticated piece in the modern wardrobe.
What is it?
The smoking jacket was first introduced as an informal men’s style of lounge jacket, originally designed to protect one’s clothing from tobacco smoke. Its classic design featured a shawl lapel, turn-up cuffs, closed with either button fastenings, toggles or a tie belt, usually made from velvet or silk. Nowadays, modern tailoring has slimmed its silhouette to suit modern tastes, and it has evolved from a functional lounging piece to a jacket for formal evenings, even becoming a black tie alternative.
The History of The Smoking Jacket
The smoking jacket holds a rich history. Initially a private garment, it has carried associations with wealth, leisure, and refinement, evolving from a practical piece to a symbol of sophisticated wear.
The origins of the smoking jacket can be traced back to the influence of the Ottoman Empire, where Turkish men wore luxurious long, loose-fitting robes called ‘kaftans’, usually made out of silk and velvet while smoking hookahs. By the early 17th century, as tobacco and other goods arrived in Britain from Asia and the Americas, the idea of a special smoking garment began to take hold. Men would wear these jackets to protect their attire while smoking, removing them once finished to preserve the freshness of their clothing beneath.
One of the earliest references comes from the diarist Samuel Pepys, who wished to be painted wearing one for his portrait - even though he had to rent the garment due to its high cost. This detail hints at the social significance of the jacket: although originally designed as a private garment, its luxurious composition quickly made it a marker of wealth and taste, often displayed in portraiture to signal status.
Image from Gentleman's Gazette
The Evolution
The smoking jacket underwent a transformation in the mid-19th century. Early versions resembled long dressing gowns, but by the 1850s they had been tailored into shorter, more structured “three-seamer” jackets. As smoking became increasingly more of a social activity, where men gathered in private smoking rooms or gentlemen’s clubs, these jackets became an essential part of the ritual to absorb tobacco smoke in style. This led the jacket to have increasingly more of public exposure, and led to its emergence in the fashion world.
It was a Royal influence that further cemented its status, where Prince Albert, husband of Queen Victoria, became particularly fond of smoking jackets. In 1865, he commissioned Henry Poole of Savile Row to create a new style for private dinners: a shorter, single-breasted jacket with a shawl collar and silk lapels.
This design caught the attention of James Potter, an American guest of the Prince. Potter introduced the style to his circle at the Tuxedo Club in New York, where it quickly gained popularity and eventually debuted publicly at Delmonico’s, the famed New York steakhouse. From that moment, the smoking jacket became a global symbol of refined style, worn throughout the 20th century both as elegant loungewear and as a sophisticated black-tie alternative.
Image from Rampley & Co.
Modern Day Wear
Today, the smoking jacket has transcended its original function. While it may no longer be essential for post-dinner cigars, it remains a statement piece for modern wardrobes. Worn to formal events, weddings, and dinners, it offers an elegant substitute for traditional black tie. Velvet provides an opportunity to add that bit of colour and texture to any formal ensemble, making it a favourite among those who appreciate both heritage and individuality in their attire.
Our collection of smoking jackets offers versatile and luxurious options crafted from the finest velvets. Ideal for dinners, intimate gatherings, or sophisticated evenings, these jackets combine traditional design elements - such as shawl collars, silk lapels, and intricate frogging with modern tailoring. Available in a rich spectrum of colours, from deep greens and burgundies to purples, royal blues, and timeless black or navy, our collection also includes bold lapel options and both single and double-breasted styles. Whatever the occasion, there is a jacket designed to ensure you stand out.
Explore our collection of smoking jackets here, and be sure to make a statement wherever the evening takes you.
We also invite you to visit us in-store where our expert team can help you find you the style and shade that suits you perfectly.
