How and When to Wear Tweed in the City: A Style Guide from Oliver Brown
Tweed has long been synonymous with the countryside and country life - woven into the traditions of hunting, shooting, fishing and other rural pursuits. Yet, today’s gentleman is increasingly spending more time in the city than field.
So arises a modern dilemma: how can tweed transition from country estate to urban landscape without feeling out of place?
We believe the answer lies in celebrating tweed’s heritage while adapting it for city living. With the right fabrics, cuts, and styling choices, tweed becomes both practical and stylish in the urban wardrobe. This guide will show you how to wear tweed confidently in the city.
Traditionally, tweed was the fabric of the sporting classes: hardy, rustic, and weatherproof. Its association with the aristocracy began in 1848, when Prince Albert bought the estate of Balmoral, and designed the Balmoral Tweed for use by all the stalkers and ghillies on the estate, intended to provide camouflage. Many of the English aristocracy followed the Royals and flocked to Scotland in the nineteenth century for shooting, stalking, and fishing, adopting tweed as the ideal country sportswear.
It wasn’t until King Edward VII took an interest in tweed, particularly the Glenurquhart tweed, when he brought the cloth to Savile Row, that it really became popular. By the late 19th century, it had become accepted in London as informal daywear.
The Duke of Windsor further cemented tweed’s place in urban wardrobes - renowned for his impeccable style and influence on modern menswear, he frequently wore tweed jackets and suits in London during the 1920’s and 30’s, demonstrating that this traditionally country fabric could be elegant in the city. Before long, tweed became the smart-casual uniform for professionals and academics in London.
Today, designers continue to reimagine tweed with lighter weaves, refined textures, and modern cuts - meaning tweed no longer belongs exclusively to the countryside , it belongs just as much to the streets of London.
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The key to a city tweed is weight. Traditional tweeds were heavy, designed to withstand Highland winds. For urban living, lighter weaves are the solution - comfortable, breathable, and versatile. While bold country checks have their place in rural settings, disguising with the heathered moors, the city calls for subtlety muted tones. Charcoal, navy, olive, and beige for example offer elegance without drawing undue attention.
Our Eaton Jacket in Ayr Tweed poses a great choice for a city tweed. Crafted from 100% wool, this jacket features a subtle blue check pattern over a beautiful beige tweed. The cloth itself takes its name from the River Ayr, with the blue echoing its waters. Specifically designed for us by Lovat Mill in Scotland, the birthplace of tweed, this cloth reflects centuries of weaving tradition. Lovat designs many of our tweeds, drawing on the natural landscape and its extensive archive to craft fabrics that are both timeless and distinctive.
The art of urban tweed styling lies in balance. Tweed jackets pair effortlessly with dark jeans or tailored chinos, creating a smart-casual look that feels polished but relaxed. Our Eaton Jacket in Navy Nailhead Tweed is a subtle, versatile option that would pair well with our Brompton Chinos in Navy, with a White City Shirt underneath.
Alternatively, tweed trousers worn with a fine knitted jumper offer a contemporary take on relaxed tailoring. New in this season, our Pleated Trousers in Autumn Bracken Check Tweed pair effortlessly with one of our Lambswool Quarter-Zip Jumpers, layered over a Tattersall Shirt for a look that is both polished and sophisticated.
Our selection of tweed gilets also makes an excellent layering piece in the city, working seamlessly over a casual shirt and trousers, with a jumper beneath for warmth as the colder months set in. As part of our new Autumn / Winter ‘25 collection, our Dogtooth Tweed Gilet would make a great layer, paired with our new Loden Trousers.
Shirts can range from crisp whites that highlight the texture of the jacket to more muted tones that harmonise with the fabric. The key is making sure not to over accessorise - the tweed is already the statement piece. Avoid rural accessories such as flat caps or field coats, which can feel out of place in an urban setting. Footwear should also be sleek and understated - a pair of our Penny Loafers can elevate the ensemble without drawing too much attention.
Specific occasions also call for tailored styling choices. For social events, a tweed jacket paired with a roll neck and suede loafers strikes the perfect balance between casual and refined. Evening theatre outings suit a muted tweed, such as our Unstructured Jacket in Nailhead Cool Sage, complemented with a silk pocket square, while casual fridays and weekend brunches are ideal for layering tweed gilets over fine knitwear with chinos or cords, without overdoing the look.
Maintaining tweed in the city requires attention, as urban environments expose fabrics to pollution and dirt. Regular brushing, spot-cleaning minor marks, and sparing dry cleaning help preserve the fabric’s integrity. Proper storage on hangers in breathable garment bags ensures longevity, while selecting versatile pieces can make city living and limited closet space easier to manage.
Modern tweed is no longer confined to the countryside. Thanks to lighter fabrics, refined cuts, and thoughtful styling, it is a practical and stylish choice for city living. By embracing it as a symbol of heritage while adapting it for contemporary urban life, tweed continues to offer timeless elegance, whether you are walking through country fields or city streets.
Shop our tweed collection here.
For those seeking a truly personal touch, our made-to-measure service offers a wide selection of exclusive tweeds to choose from, tailored into any garment you like. Book an appointment here today.
